Thomas Huber

Mountaineer and free-climber
„No matter where, on the planes of Antarctica, on the wild mountains of Patagonia, or the bizarre mountains of the Karakoram, we can always rely on our KOMPERDELL poles, we trust them without reserve.“
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© Thomas Huber

Profile

date of birth: 18.11.1966 ★
Place of birth: Palling
domicile: Berchtesgarden
profession: certified mountain- and skiing guide

Allgemeines Bio

Thomas and his younger brother Alexander are well renowned in mountaineering circles as the „Huber-brothers“ Thomas has been climbing ever since he was ten years old. Being the oldest, he was the first one his father introduced to mountaineering, soon to be followed by his younger brother, Alexander. Already their first climbing tour together showed that Thomas had found his ideal climbing partner. In 1992 he got his diploma as state-certified mountain- and skiguide.

Notable achievements

1992 second clean ascent of Shogun in Berchtesgaden
1994 first redpoint ascent of the alpine route „The End of Silence“,which is part of the so called „Alpine trilogy“, the hardest multi-chip routes in the world at that time.
1996 free ascent of the „Route Salathé“ on El Capitan in Yosemite-National Park- Winter solo ascent of the Eiger north face
1997 first ascent of the West Face of Latok II in the Karakoram mountains
1998 first ascent of El Nino on El Capitan – it was the first free ascent of the North America Wall. Redpoint ascent of Freerider, being the first free ascent of an El Capitan route in one day only.
1999 third solo ascent Dreamcatcher (Thunklamm in Austria)
Second ascent of the south west wall of Latok IV
2000 first ascent of the direct North-Pillar on the Shivling (6.543 m)
First ascent f a new free climbing route on El Capitan: „Golden Gate“
2001 first ascent of THE OGRE III (6.800 m)
Second ascent of The Ogre I (7.285 m), where before them several expeditions had failed.
2003 first redpoint ascent of Zodiac on El Capitan
2004 speed record on El Capitan, route: Zodiac in 1:52h together with his brother Alexander Ascent of the west peak of Arwa Spire (6.088 m) in the Indian Garhwal Himalaya.
2005 traverse of Torre Standhart – Herron - Torre Egger in Patagonia
2007 on October 8th: speed record at the Nose with a climb of 2:45:45h. This record was broken on October 12th 2008by Hans Florine and Yujy who needed 2:37:05h for the same climb.
2008 first ascent of Silla west face „El Bastardo“ in Patagonia All 3 peaks of Lavaredo on one day: the western peak, the big and the little peak. First ascent of the west-wall of Holtanna, the third highest peak of the Drygalski mountains in Queen Maud Land of Antarctica. Ascent of Ulvetanna, the highest peak oft he Drygalski Mountains.
2009 first redpoint ascent oft he „Eternal Flame“ on the Nameless Tower of Karakoram

Goals:
Thomas and Alexander, like always, keep a low profile about their plans, they want to surprise people. We know, however, that they have their eye on the Arctic, where there is a big island – left of Greenland - with a granite wall, a challenge the Huber brothers just have to meet.

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