Alexander Huber

Mountaineer and free-climber
„Where ever – in the Antarctic, in the wild mountains of Patagonia or the rugged mountais oft he K arakoram, KOMPERDELL poles are a reliable partner, we always trust them.“
huber
© Jan Vincent Kleine

Profile

date of birth: 30.12.1968 ★
Place of birth: Trostberg
domicile: Traunstein
profession: certified skiing- and mountain guide

Allgemeines Bio

He and his older brother, Thomas - called the „Huber brothers“- made a name for themselves as free climbers and mountaineers. Alex‘ favorite sport has always been mountaineering At 12 he climbed his first 4 000 m peak. Alex studied physics and is a state-certified skiing- and mountain guide.He became full time professional mountaineer in 1997, he is one oft he most successful climbers and mountaineers.

Most important achievements

Most important achievements:

1992 first ascent of Om, Triangle, Bavaria
1994 first ascent of „White Rose“ at the Schleier waterfalls in Tyrol,
1995 first redpont ascent of the famous Salathé on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park
1996 first ascent of „Open Air“, Schleier- waterfalls in Tyrol, the most difficult sport route of its time.
1997 first ascent of the west-wall of Latok II (7:108 m) in Karakoram
1998 climbing the Cho Oyu ( 8.188 m) in the Himalayas
First redpoint ascent of El Nino route on El Capitan, this being the first free climbing oft he North America Wall.
Redpoint ascent of „Free Rider“ in 15:25 hours, the first free climbing of an El Capitan route within a day.
2000 first ascent of „Bellavista“ the north-wall oft he western pinnacle in Winter- a solo attempt.
First ascent of the „Golden Gate“, El Capitan
2001 first redpoint ascent of Bellavista, probably the world’s most difficult rock-climbing
First ascent of EL Corazon, El Capitan
2002 climbing of Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Cerro Standhart in Patagonia
Free solo ascent of the Hasse-Brandler „Direttissima“ on the Big Peak of Drei Zinnen in Italy ( VIII+, 500 meters) accomplished in in 4 hours.
2003 first redpoint ascent of Zodiac, El Capitan, together with brother Thomas.
2004 free solo ascent of the route Communist, in Austria
Speed record doing the Zodiac in 1:51:34 hour, the fastest clean ascent of a Big Wall on El Capitan
2005 first redpoint ascent of „Voie Petite“ at Grand Capucin, the most difficult free-climbing route on Mont Blanc massif
2006 first ascent of “Golden Eagle“, Guja Desmochada in Patagonia, together with Stephan Siegrist
Free solo ascent of the south face of Dent du Géant (4.013 m), Mont Blanc
2007 first solo ascent of „Baur Roof“ on west peak of Drei Zinnen, Italy, taking the route „PanAroma“.
Making of the film „At the Limit“ Speed record on the Nose – 2:45:45h on October 8th, 2007. This record was broken On October 12th, 2008 by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama who did the Nose in 2:37:05h
2008 first free solo ascent of Grand Capucin, using the „Schweizerführe“ route for ascent as well as descent, Mont Blanc massif, the most diffcult peak of the Alps.
First ascent of the West face and first solo ascent of Holtanna
Third ascent of Ulvetanna in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica.
2009 first redpoint ascent of „Eternal Flame“, Nameless Tower in the Karakoram mountains.

Goals of the „Huber boys“:
Like always they keep a low profile about their plans and prefer to surprise people. As far as we know their plans are aimed at the Arctic,where there is an island – left of Greenland – and a granite wall, only waiting to be climbed by the Huber brothers.

Video